Monday, August 12, 2013

Split Rocks

We took the 6:00 am ferry back to the mainland today.  We are now in Split. It is a great town.  There is an opera playing down the street as I type.  I can hear it from my window because it is literally on the street!  We tried to get tickets but they were sold out.  Kenna and Heather are still strolling the Riva.  I am posting before I turn in for the night.  The Riva is a gorgeous wide, seaside promenade that everyone who is anyone strolls.


We are staying inside Diocletian's palace for the night.  That's him below.
Yes, we are really moving up in the world now. Diocletian was the emperor of Rome back around 200 BC... Or was it Ad?  He is famous for deciding to divide the empire into four sections and assign emperors to each section.  While this was most certainly helpful at the time, it may have been the beginning of decline for the empire.  Anyhoo, his palace was built right on the edge of the sea...and when I say edge, I mean edge.  You could sail right up to the back door.  Croatia tides are almost non-existent, measuring less than a foot, according to a local.  Today, there is the beautiful promenade walk there so they either reclaimed some land or the sea receded.  Over the years, the people built the town right through the palace so it is a very neat place.  I'll have to post more pics tomorrow because Heather has her camera now and I haven't got any more pics to help describe this place.

I do, however, have a shot of Kenna at lunch and a cool fountain.








Sunday, August 11, 2013

Island life at its best

Sitting by our open doors right now after another exciting day ......
Earlier today we left our apartment and walked across the street for a good morning swim. The crystal clear warm water is salty and very buoyant and while the waterfront by our place isn't sand the pebbles are well rounded from all the waves.  

We decided experiencing mass at the cathedral in Korcula's  St Mark's square would be interesting.  It was a packed house standing room only.  We couldn't even get in the door and had to stand in the doorway.  After mass it was time for some local pastries and then a tour of the old town.  
Korcula's streets are set up in the shape  of a fish skeleton with the streets on one side curved and the other straight.  The straight streets allow the good northeastern winds to flow through town and the curved streets  prevent the bad south winds from passing through.  

The highlight of the old town was climbing to the top of the cathedral tower to look out over the city and the surrounding sea. By now it was early afternoon and the wind had come up. The view was spectacular but climbing the tower itself was pretty cool too. Classic European narrow windy staircase all the way up. Very narrow at the top outside the bell tower but also amazing. 

From there we headed to the marina to look at the fancy boats and have a little walk along the seashore.    When we headed back into the old town it seemed like a good time to shop or better yet to sit down try some local seafood and wine.  The setting of sitting along side the wall looking over the Adriatic enjoying mussels and wine is hard to beat.   


Note how Heather and Holly cleverly use their arms to create a heart shaped frame around the boat in between them.  Art gone bad.

There  was still pretty water to see and so sadly we left our little perch and started towards the pier.  We had noticed the wind surfers earlier but at the end of the town wall they were spectacular.   They raced towards the wall and quickly turned and headed back across the straight. The speed,strength and sheer skill level was impressive.    
Korcula is quiet in the afternoon but once evening falls the town really comes alive.  All the shops restaurants,streets are filled with people. Great fun all around.  Tomorrow we head back to the mainland.  We managed to get our tickets for the catamaran so assuming we make the 6 am ferry we are saying goodbye to this wonderful island town and moving on to Split





Saturday, August 10, 2013

Sometimes those in the know...don't

As it turns out weatherman and travel offices in Croatia both have reliability issues. This morning started with a quick check of the days weather....sunny and hot (32... feels like 40 hot).  Oh joy, more of the same....yeah!  Then we headed over to the port to get  the catamaran over to Korcula.  Ever cautious ...we arrived more than an hour early, getting there even before the ticket office was scheduled to open. Plenty of time....you would think...right?  Well...so...1/2 hour later we headed to the bus terminal to get bus tickets.  Yup! The Catamaran office opened a little early and was sold out shortly before we got to the window.  Not a problem...we are teachers and 'flexible' is our middle name ( yup all three of us have the same middle name....go figure).  This is why when we discovered that the 9:00 bus was sold out we were easily able to adjust our lives and plan for the 3:00 one. It's still all good. 


We set out to explore Port Cruz and welcomed the sight of some clouds in the sky.  There was a lovely trail along the coast that included a cooling breeze, an amazing dog playing chase and carry the tire(nope, not an auto correct issue here, it really was a tire that his owner threw into the water for him to retrieve), and a really cool bar that was located inside a cave. Then it was time to head back to the bus terminal to grab our luggage and hop the bus. 


Okay, so remember the sunny and hot forecast this morning?   We did too but had no difficulty accepting a little cloud cover and actually were quite appreciative of the cooling breezes.  It was the  darkening clouds in the distance at this point that really got our attention. ( We actually hoped it might rain a little to cool us off)...(Editor insert:  Holly would like it known she warned Heather and Kenna of angering the Rain Gods. One has to be extremely careful this close to Italy and Greece.) Next, time we will be more careful of what we wish for. (Holly's point exactly.) Okay, we ALMOST made it back to the bus terminal before the deluge hit and no one was actually hurt when the hail began to pelt down, (ironically we would have given anything for a little ice the day before) .  Did I mention the lightening? Sunny and hot my #%#^%.

To be honest, it is these kind of things that make travelling fun and interesting isn't it? The two young women who sat on the floor beside us on the bus because it was overbooked thought so too. 

We are safely in Korcula now.  The sun is shining and all is right with the world.  Here is the view from our new place.

Friday, August 9, 2013

A Daytrip to Bosnia Herzogovinia

Having your own personal driver is cool.  Today, we spent the big bucks and hired a guide to drive us to Mostar, Bosnia Herzogovinia.  Mostar is interesting because it was almost completely levelled during the war.  Catholic Croats and Muslim Bosnians lived as one in the city.  When Dubrovnik was attacked in '91, they fought side by side against theSerbs, but by '95, it was everyone for the,selves and the city was torn apart as former neighbours blew each other to pieces.  Because of the extreme devastation, much of the city has not been rebuilt and it is used as a reminder of the pain of war.


Our driver spent a good part of the six hours of driving time, talking to us about the war. He had fought in it and was one of the few people we have met who had a more balanced recollection.  There is still a lot of bitterness and blame.

On the other hand, Mostar was quite pretty in the sections that had been rebuilt.  We spent some happy hours shopping for special little something's to take home.





Yet another pretty little town in Boznia Herzogovinia is called Blagaj (Blah-gai rhymes with pie).  The Turks had a dervish who lived here to help guide people in their spiritual lives.  I thoughtitsoundedlike the oracle at Delphi.


The dervish lived in the cave barely visible above the house behind us.  The house is the dervish house.

Tomorrow we are off to Korcula so we may not have Internet. You may get a break from our witty repartee for few days...or maybe not.  Ooh, the suspense.




Thursday, August 8, 2013

Kayaking the Mediterranean

Did I mention it was hot?  Today had to be 38 degrees in the shade. Being the intrepid travellers we are, we sought refuge at a nearby Buza.  Here we are enduring the heat with typical Canadian aplomb. 

After a gruelling day of observing the ocean habits of the native Southern European, we decided to challenge ourselves to a sea kayak experience.  Heather and Holly shared a kayak and Kenna went solo.  We were in a group of about ten tourists.  It was quickly apparent Heather and Holly would not be front runners in our trip.

Interestingly, synchronization of movement is one key factor in the forward motion of a kayak.  Heather and Holly struggled with this concept.  Somehow, our kayak wanted to move left.  Clearly, it was defunct.  When Holly pointed this out to the guide, he offered various tips for success; none of which were very useful as the kayak continued to be drawn to the open Mediterranean.  Eventually, the group stopped and a guide offered a choice, probably better referred to as the "cut 'em loose" choice.  He said if anyone wanted to take the shorter route back, one of the guides would take those people.  It should be understood here that he was NOT looking in our direction as he said this, but we willingly took the opportunity, to the relief of all, I'm sure. Kenna kindly came with us as did another kayak of ladies and it was a much more enjoyable trip home, even with the damn kayak pulling constantly out to sea.

This lovely sunset photos is not indicative of the amount time it took to get back.  Really.  We had opted for the sunset cruise, mainly because they offered wine on our return.  We earned it as it is quite possible Holly will not be able to use her left arm tomorrow.


Wednesday, August 7, 2013

It's still hot

Okay, so yesterday when we arrived, it was mildly amazing it was so hot. Today it was less so.  It was sweat dripping down your back hot.  It was find a shady deck and drink exotic drinks hot.  Still, we managed to get out... To the deck and beyond.


At the top of Mount Srd ( pronounced surge)

Walking the wall.  Notice the fine new hats.

Streets of Dubrovnik

Heather looking hot.

Pirate ship in the bay outside our window.

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

It's a pleasant 34 degrees

Outside the gates do Dubrovnik. ( old town)

Kayak guide takes picture of himself on Heather's camera.  Surprise!

View from our apartment.

Leaning out the window

Our window from below.  The two windows above the black shuttered windows.

Dinner below our window.